Mandy Lee (aka @ladyandpups), is author of The Art of Escapism Cooking: A Survival Story, with Intensely Good Flavors. This "unique and deeply felt debut” (Publisher's Weekly starred review) is packed with meticulous recipes & dramatic photography. There's even a chapter devoted to high-end doggie treats!
I had a chance to review the cook book. It has a great variety of dishes, many of which I hadn't really ever thought about making, but all of them looked great. I also liked the commentary in the cookbook - it really helped make it seem persona and fun. Many of the recipes have somewhat specialized ingredients, or at the very least, might challenge you to go out of your regular ingredient repertoire. However, there's a comprehensive pantry section that will help. And, you can often substitute ingredients and still end up with a tasty dish.
Here is one of my favorites.
Pandora’s Box
I think the funny thing about growing up sandwiched between two polar-opposite cultures is that often I just couldn’t tell
if a particular idea that made total sense to one side would be found by the other to be equally awesome or utterly bizarre.
Take this thing called shibuya honey toast. It is an ingenious Japanese creation that basically involves cutting a
whole loaf of sweet milk bread into humongous cubes, toasting them, removing the interiors, reprocessing them, then
stuffing them back into the cubes and adding various toppings. To us Asians who are fanatics about milk toast—you
know, those sweet, squishy, goosedown-pillow breads sold at Asian bakeries?—this is seriously genius stuff. But to the
other side of me, raised to throw stones at people who eat bread that didn’t bloom from a decade-old levain . . . a sweet
white bread bowl? Bizarre.
So I guess this recipe is my effort to make ultimate sense of it all. It is shibuya honey toast, sort of. It is crème brûlée
French toast, sort of. It even has a little bit of a custard-filled doughnut going on. The whole cube of crustless milk bread
is encased in a shiny, shatteringly thin caramel shell, then filled with an enormous dollop of chamomile-infused vanilla
bean custard. It’s crispy, soft, pillowy, and creamy all at once, with a few pops of tart fresh berry to give it a little shout.
MAKES 2 BOXES/2 SERVINGS
CUSTARD
1 vanilla bean
2 cups (480 mL) whole milk
1 tablespoon loose chamomile tea
5 large egg yolks
1/4 cup (60 mL) honey
1/4 cup (50 g) granulated sugar
5 tablespoons (39 g) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon custard powder (find online, or
replace with another 1 tablespoon flour)
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick/54 g) unsalted butter
BOXES
1 approximately 11-inch (28-cm) loaf Hokkaido
milk bread or rectangular brioche
3/4 cup (180 mL) whole milk
1 large egg
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon salt
Granulated sugar, for coating
Unsalted butter, for frying
Tart berries—raspberries, strawberries,
blueberries—to sprinkle on top
MAKE THE CUSTARD
1. Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise,
then scrape out all the seeds. Combine the pod,
seeds, and milk in a medium saucepan and set it
over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally to
prevent scalding. When it is almost at a simmer,
turn off the heat. Place a sieve over the saucepan
so that it dips into the milk but doesn’t sink to
the bottom, then add the chamomile tea. Let
steep for 5 minutes. 2. In a medium bowl, using a handheld mixer
or whisk, whisk the egg yolks, honey, and sugar
until thick and velvety, about 2 minutes (you
should see ribbons fall from the whisk). Add
the flour and custard powder, then whisk until
lump-free. Remove the chamomile and vanilla
pods from the milk, then slowly pour 1/2 cup
(120 mL) of the hot milk into the yolk mixture,
whisking constantly until combined. Add the
yolk mixture back to the pan, then set it over
medium-low heat. Whisking constantly, let the
mixture bubble gently until you have a thick
custard (take the pot off the heat and whisk to
blend if lumps start forming on the side of the
pan). Turn off the heat and whisk in the unsalted
butter, one tablespoon at a time, until evenly
incorporated. Let cool slightly, then transfer to
an airtight container and chill in the fridge for at
least 6 hours or up to overnight. The custard can
be made a couple of days ahead.
MAKE THE BOX
3. With a serrated knife, remove the crust from
the bread on all sides, then cut the loaf into two
5-inch (13-cm) cubes. Try to keep the edges as
straight as possible.
4. In a large bowl, whisk the milk, egg, brown
sugar, cinnamon, and salt. On a rimmed baking
sheet, scatter a thin layer of granulated sugar.
Working one at a time, dip the bread cubes in the
milk mixture for just a couple of seconds on each
side, then place them on a baking sheet. With
a spoon, scatter a generous but even layer of
granulated sugar over each side (you need a good
coating to get that hardened caramel shell).
5. Set a nonstick skillet over medium-low heat
and add enough butter to thinly coat the surface.
Use a flat spatula to gently place the coated
bread cubes in the skillet, then fry on each side
until the sugar is golden brown and caramelized.
If you see burned sugar in the skillet as you cook,
remove it with a spoon. Keep adding more butter
as needed.
6. Let the cubes cool slightly on a cooling rack
(the caramel needs a couple of minutes to
harden). They can be made 15 minutes before
serving but no longer. Right before serving, cut
out a 2-inch (5-cm) hole on one side of each
cube, then remove about half of the bread from
the interior (chopsticks are perfect for this job).
Using a piping bag or plastic bag with a cutout
hole, squeeze the chilled custard inside to fill the
cavity up to the top. Sprinkle with tart berries
(I used blueberries because that was what I
had, but more sour berries like raspberries or
strawberries would work better) and a bit of
powdered sugar. Dig in.
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