Healthy Habits: Gel Manicures

 From moody mattes to chrome finishes, there are a lot of new nail trends for Spring 2023. 

But one thing will not be in style this season - the use of UV lamps to dry the perfect manicure. 

Since the introduction of gel nails, much has been debated about the safety of nail dryers that use UV light tWhat are gel manicures and why can they be problematic for skin?

Gel manicures have become popular because they provide long-lasting, chip-resistant nail color. A Gel manicure uses a gel-based polish that requires a UV light to cure the polish and seal it onto the nail bed. But some research now suggests that the process may increase the risk of skin cancer. In a new study, Cellular and Molecular Medicine researchers at the University of California San Diego, evaluate chronic exposure to these lights and evaluate prolonged DNA damage. The evidence is growing that this UV radiation exposure could cause cumulative damaging effects, but until we actually have long term studies performed on humans, we cannot definitely say that there is a link. Intuitively it makes sense that the UV from these lamps should be minimized for a variety of reasons primarily because of the risk of skin cancer but also for other reasons. Additionally, gel nail polish is removed by soaking the nails in harsh chemicals and/or physically grinding the polish off of the nails. All of this can severely weaken the nail leading to disfigurement, breakage, ridges, and possibly infection.

If people still want to get manicures what are some healthier options?

Perhaps the best way to protect yourself while getting a gel manicure is to apply a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to your hands prior to placing your hands under the lamp. Sunscreen will help protect your skin from the ultraviolet light used to seal gel nail polish to the nail. If you don’t like the idea of using sunscreen, there are also fingertip-less gloves designed to protect your skin from the UV light. You could also look for a salon which offers LED lamps instead of UV lamps to cure the polish onto the nail. As with any manicure, I would also recommend that instead of having your cuticles cut, you ask the manicurist to push them back to avoid potential infections and only lightly buff the nails before applying the gel. Heavy buffing or filing can weaken the nails and make them brittle. Never peel the gel manicure off your nail because it will damage the nails leaving them thinner and soft.  

Are there ways people can take care of their nails in at-home manicures or pedicures?

There are some new, alternative gel-effect nail polish systems that are meant to be used at home and claim to last longer than typical traditional nail polish - but don’t need a UV light to dry. These products are mostly made of lacquers and shellacs. It’s important to follow the application and removal instructions so you use the product correctly to avoid damage. And remember, it’s important to care for your nails between polish applications, especially if they are discolored, bumpy or dehydrated. Taking a little break from polishing your nails and applying a cuticle oil can help to restore them.o dry and cure gel nail polish because exposure to ultraviolet light has been linked to skin cancer. But just how dangerous these dryers really are has been the subject of much debate. Now, in a new study, Cellular and Molecular Medicine researchers at the University of California San Diego evaluate chronic exposure to these lights and evaluate prolonged DNA damage. 

I had a chance to interview Dr. Alexis Young, dermatologist with Hackensack University Medical Center, who explains what the findings mean for people who regularly have their nails done; how safe these dryers really are; and what if any precautions people can take to protect their health while enjoying the perfect mani & pedi.